Overview
Brand: Golden Devil
Origin: Hampden Estate, Wakefield, Trelawny Parish, Jamaica
Still: Pot
Age: 12 years
Finish: ex-Bourbon
ABV: 64.1%
Exactly 40 reviews ago, I took a look at a long-aged Hampden rum from the <>H marque, released by Scottish independent bottler Hunter Laing under their Kill Devil label (for European releases). Today, we've got another high-ester, aged release by the same outfit; this time, the bottle carries their Golden Devil label (for US releases).
Golden Devil Jamaica 2007 is a product of Hampden Estate's double retort pot stills at their facility in Trelawney Parish, Jamaica. It was produced to conform to the C<>H marque, which means this will fall in the ester range of 1,300-1,400 g/hLAA. This single cask was aged for a total of 12 years (likely with some part of that taking place in Europe) before being bottled at 64.1% ABV.
This sample was provided to me by /u/LIFOanAccountant, a fellow rum reviewer on /r/rum and at MaltRunners.com.
Appearance
Champagne, low viscosity
Nose
Fresh pineapple, paint thinner, rotting blueberries, zesty kiwi, overripe banana peel, hint of butterscotch
Palate
Tons of pineapple (freshly-cut, grilled, clear Lifesaver flavor), fresh blueberries, kiwi, mango, stewed raspberries, effervescent minerality, table salt
Finish
Medium, funky, fruity; pineapple, kiwi skin, banana peel, vanilla pudding, salt
Rating: 7/10
Summary
Wow, right off the bat, this Hampden leaves no doubt that it's firmly in the realm of C<>H. The nose provides the initial clues of the level of funk and acidity, but is far more subdued compared to the palate.
Upon sipping, I'm met with a blast of pineapple notes of all varieties: acidic and sweet fresh-cut pineapple chunks with the rind attached, grilled over an open flame, and the artificial flavor of a clear Lifesaver.
Trying to push passed this wall, I get an array of fresh fruits like blueberries, kiwi, mango, and stewed raspberries. On the backend, there's an almost salty, effervescent minerality. The finish is shorter than you may expect from the palate, but does not skimp on the pineapple, kiwi, and banana notes.
This is a little wild, but very fun and a great aged expression of a fan-favorite marque from Hampden. This is a fun one to try, and I hope we'll see more C<>H releases from independent bottlers in the future.